Naples (Napoli)
Also known as: Naples (Napoli), Naples, Napoli
Place places/cities Basic Updated: 2026-03-06
Show in diary 158 mentions Research Status: Comprehensive Last Updated: 2026-02-10 Diary Coverage: 1874 references, 1877 extended visit, additional mentions throughout
Overview
Naples, the great southern Italian port city on the Bay of Naples, figures in Marie Bashkirtseff's diary both as a potential refuge from Nice's social cruelties and as an actual destination during her Italian travels. Marie's 1877 visit to Naples during Carnival was particularly memorable, including her famous encounter with King Victor Emmanuel II. The city also appeared in earlier entries (1874) when the Bashkirtseff family considered relocating there after social setbacks in Nice.
Historical Context (1870s)
Post-Unification Naples
Naples had been the capital of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies until Italian unification:- 1860: Garibaldi's expedition ended Bourbon rule
- 1861: Naples was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy
- 1870s: The city struggled with poverty and overcrowding despite its grandeur
- Cholera epidemics: Public health crises highlighted the contrast between elegant boulevards and teeming slums
Winter Resort
Despite its social problems, Naples remained a major destination for European aristocracy:- Mild winter climate: Similar appeal to Nice, attracting northern Europeans
- Cultural attractions: Ancient ruins, museums, churches
- Bay of Naples: Spectacular natural setting with Vesuvius as backdrop
- Nearby excursions: Pompeii, Herculaneum, Capri, Sorrento, Amalfi Coast
- International society: A seasonal colony of wealthy visitors
Cultural Life
Naples in the 1870s offered:- San Carlo Opera House: One of Europe's most prestigious opera venues
- National Archaeological Museum: Treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum
- Royal Palace: The former Bourbon residence
- Churches: Hundreds of ornate churches with important artworks
- Spaccanapoli: The ancient heart of the city
Marie's Relationship with Naples
1874: Imagined Refuge
After the Lewin ball invitation rejection (March 11, 1874), Marie and her mother discussed selling their Nice property (number 55) and fleeing to Naples. Marie wrote: "Nous avons parle de vendre 55 et nous en aller a Naples, car a Nice il n'y a plus de salut pour nous!" (We talked about selling 55 and going to Naples, for in Nice there is no salvation for us!). This dramatic reaction reveals:- The depth of social humiliation the family felt in Nice
- Naples as representing an alternative social scene where they might start fresh
- The family's willingness to make radical changes to preserve social standing
1877: Carnival Visit
Marie visited Naples during Carnival in early 1877, accompanied by her mother, niece Dina, and Russian friends:- Marie suffered from chronic laryngitis and hoped the Italian sun would help
- She and Dina attended the veglione (Carnival masked ball) dressed in black with lace capes and masks
- She boldly approached King Victor Emmanuel II to compliment him as "the most amiable and best king in the world"
- The encounter with the king was characteristic of Marie's audacity and social ambition
Cultural and Artistic Impressions
Naples provided Marie with:- Exposure to southern Italian art and culture
- The dramatic landscape of the Bay of Naples
- Encounters with a different kind of European society
- Material for comparison with Nice and Paris
Key Sites
Cultural Attractions
- Museo Archeologico Nazionale: Pompeian frescoes, mosaics, and sculptures
- Teatro San Carlo: Europe's oldest continuously active opera house (1737)
- Palazzo Reale: The royal palace on the waterfront
- Castel dell'Ovo: Ancient fortress on the waterfront
- Capodimonte Museum: Important art collection
Excursions from Naples
- Pompeii: Ancient city preserved by Vesuvius's eruption (79 AD)
- Herculaneum: Another preserved Roman town
- Vesuvius: The active volcano dominating the bay
- Capri: Island retreat of emperors and artists
- Sorrento: Clifftop resort town across the bay
- Amalfi Coast: Spectacular coastal scenery
Social Life
- Chiaia waterfront: Fashionable promenade area
- Villa Comunale: Public garden along the bay
- Posillipo: Elegant hillside neighborhood with views
- Hotels: Grand establishments catering to international visitors
Significance in the Diary
Naples represented several themes for Marie:
- Escape: An alternative to social defeat in Nice
- Adventure: Carnival, encounters with royalty, Italian romance
- Cultural education: Exposure to ancient and southern Italian culture
- Health: The hope that a warmer climate might ease her ailments
- Social ambition: Even in Naples, Marie sought proximity to power and prestige