Sunday, 2 April 1876

Monks, churches, convents — all this amuses me greatly, and I love Rome on account of the monks who hold sway there. I find it pleasing — from a distance, of course, for I should not wish to be in a convent myself.
I have just returned from Spillmann’s, where we lunched after leaving church. The Russian church in Rome is in the embassy building and is very small — one might be in a drawing room. At the end of the service we were alone and isolated; all the others, the ambassadress at their head, formed groups, moved about, talked among themselves. I said nothing to Maman and we went to call on Madame Sarasin, but we encountered her on the way with her husband. She is so pleased to see Maman that her little white and rosy face seems charming to me. They had called on us a second time — Maman being ill and we at the Pincio — and found no one. We encounter them again at Spillmann’s. After which I lock myself in, open my wretched journal, and dissolve into tears. It is a long time since I last wept.
Appletcheïeff is in Rome — he greeted me in church. He already knows the ambassador and his wife, so that when Madame Appletcheïeff comes she will find everything arranged. Do you know the story of these two households?
Yxkull was an old bachelor; he had a secretary named Glinka, who was married. One fine day Glinka discovered the ambassador with his wife — he seized him so firmly by the hand that he dislocated a finger, and forced him to marry her after divorcing her himself and taking all the blame before the Synod. The story is not old — all this happened three years ago. Glinka went as embassy secretary to Switzerland, taking his two children with him, and Baron Yxkull went to marry Glinka’s former wife at Nice. Is not Glinka a noble soul? Appletcheïeff took his wife from a house of ill repute in Petersburg and presented her in Petersburg society, from which he was expelled as soon as it became known he was not married. The same thing happened at Nice. Whereupon he married his mistress and they are no longer expelled — on the contrary.
Is it not atrocious to see such scoundrels honoured and received everywhere, while oneself, clean, noble, and honest, is received nowhere — like the most wretched of creatures!
I am too miserable to write — too miserable to be ambitious. I would consider it supreme happiness if I could only have some place in society. All those Russians at church look at us as things, not as their equals. I can barely hold the pen.
I should like to be ugly, poorly dressed, unnoticed! I detest myself — I detest everyone. Rather than making me live like this, my God, let me die! It would be a hundred times better.
At half past two I went out alone and ordered the coachman to drive to San Stefano Rotondo. Once past the Colosseum I asked him all manner of things about the convents and told him to drive slowly past that of San Giovanni — but it was not yet quite three o’clock; I had him drive on further, and Luigi, seeing me so eager for convents, showed me a women’s one; and I went back again to the piazza of San Giovanni e Paolo. It was exactly three o’clock, the sun was warm; I had him stop in front of the convent and, with my back to the sun, I waited. The few windows that look onto the piazza are barred and blocked.
— To see, Pietro had told me, one must go to the Villa Mattei.
I could see the Villa Mattei opposite — but I did not dare venture there alone, dressed in white; besides I had not a sou with me. Two women lying in the sun, a beggar, a child, from time to time monks of various colours, priests, and some rather amusing ruins — that was all I saw. So as not to look like a madwoman I visited two unremarkable churches and came home. He was no doubt unable to show himself — but upon his release I shall hold it against him as a crime. I doubt no longer. Why would he invent such a tale? Why would he not simply say he was going to Terracina? One must be sceptical — but one must also bow to the evidence. Poor man! May he rest in peace.
Today at four o’clock there is a race between a man and a horse at the Villa Borghese on the Piazza di Siena.
A certain Bertaccini has proposed a wager to Count I-don’t-know-who. The wager is four thousand francs — the man undertakes to run sixty times around the Piazza di Siena, roughly forty-four kilometres, in less time than the Count’s horse at a trot.
So curious a challenge and such magnificent weather attract an immense crowd.
We went onto the lawn where all elegant Rome was strolling — and the Russians too: the Baroness Yxkull, Countess Kisseleff, Torlonia’s mother, the Mechtcherskys, Princess Ouroussoff, Prince Obolensky, etc., etc. It goes without saying that I was on pins and needles and did not know where to look — when, to console me, along came my friend Bruschetti. I was immediately consoled, and we got back in the carriage after three minutes.
Why must he approach! Does he not see that I have no wish to speak to him, that I barely refrain from turning my back on him, that I hate him?
He is not even a good companion, he is not of the Caccia-Club, he is not of the gilded youth of Rome — and I hate him! He is rich — what do you wish me to do with his wealth! The devil take the dreadful creature! [One line crossed out.] Everyone mocks him, especially since I refused him. Torlonia’s eyes were so red that I think he was “well away,” as he puts it. I saw him go up to Mademoiselle Mechtchersky and seize — that is the word — her hand with familiar ease. This put me in a rage, because Clément was speaking to a woman — but it also consoled me, because Clément was the same with the princess as with me: free, unconcerned. The race finished after six o’clock; the crowd surged like a furious ocean and began to breach the barriers, forcing us to stop for a few moments, during which Torlonia came to tell us that the man had won. I was sad, furious — and these few words from the wretched duke made me gay and almost calm.
I have been in a fever all day — I am very tired and very much in love with Torlonia. He is small but he seems tall and majestic. Grand seigneur and scoundrel — put all that together and you have Torlonia. He has what the Duke of Hamilton had; I cannot say what it is. I remember now: when I was driving his horses he wrapped my feet and covered my dress with his carriage rug of broadcloth with a silver plate bearing a C. He did it so well, so naturally, passing his right arm behind my waist to join the two ends of the rug, that I am enchanted by it to this day. For a moment both his arms were around my waist — but I did not even blush, for I felt perfectly well that he did it with the utmost respect. Another would not dare do that, even to arrange a rug — or he would dare, but with an intention of impertinence. But he… what more is there to say? Everything he does is well done, everything he says is well said — even when he says something for which one would send another packing, and which in another would be villainy, whereas in him everything is entirely natural and entirely right. He does not seem so to me because he pleases me — but he pleases me because he is so.
written across the page
At that time I made it a duty to admire a great many people. It sufficed to be a plobster to deserve this admiration, which I dressed up in the eternal word: love.
And Pietro is in the convent and thinking of me. Oh well — I have promised him nothing; I am entirely free.
I was surprised that he had not yet spoken to his parents. But what would he say to them, since I tell him I do not love him? Had I told him the contrary, had I consented to his proposals, it would be another matter.
I saw the charming Princess Margherita. She is twenty-four and adorable. Is it possible that the monkey Humbert prefers old women like Princess Ginitti and the Duchess of Rigano? He is a monkey, you will say — it is natural enough that he should love female monkeys. No — that is not natural; ugly men love beautiful women.
Five more days and Pietro will emerge from his snug retreat. I am in some ways glad of these five days of absence — I shall go to bed early and shall be fresher and stronger for it. And Plowden? Plowden never stays past half past eleven, and Plowden arrives at nine.
What a pity to have to leave — and leave I must, soon, on the 16th or 17th of this month. I love Rome.
crossed out[Seven lines crossed out, followed by a page removed by Marie]
I am suddenly seized with a great tenderness for my poor monk, and I hasten to write it down. It is midnight. What is he doing now? Sleeping, no doubt. Have they at least given him a bed, or do they make him sleep on a “cold stone”? Out of spite I shall love him this evening. I am perhaps silly — but it seems to me a kind of revenge for Torlonia’s contempt.
— I have a dreadful spite against that woman, Torlonia said when we last saw him at the Pincio — a dreadful spite!
— And why? Maman asked.
— Ah, Madame, you don’t know — it dates from the Capitole.
I remember — at the Capitole, I did nothing but turn my back on him and receive his advances with the greatest contempt. Not that he displeased me — but I was seeking and seeing only Antonelli. I shall never forgive myself for that! Torlonia did everything to make me speak to him; he followed me, he spoke to me — and I paid no attention to him whatsoever. Dina kept whispering to me:
— But look — there is the attractive fair-haired one, speak to him, he is so charming.
And I did not listen to her! And again at the Apollo at the first ball, he came and stood before our box and I barely answered him. He spoke to me from very close and smelled of cognac. Then when I was returning to the box with Mechtchersky I saw him seated in a window embrasure in the corridor, very much occupied with a masked lady in domino.
— My compliments! I said to him in passing.
I was a little vexed to see him so occupied with this woman, for he was, all the same, the attractive fair-haired one. Oh foolish creature, oh brute, oh madwoman! I went looking for Antonelli! When Clément was there and seeking me out!
Wait — and my tenderness for Brother Monk? Away with it!
— No, truly, Torlonia said to me — you treated me quite… truly unspeakably, at the Capitole.
I should think so — I was mad. Wretched woman! Senseless brute! No, I shall never forgive myself.
Ah, damned Clément — you spit on me? Very well! I shall love Antonelli this evening — it means nothing to you and you don’t even know it, but I shall love him to enrage you. I feel a certain satisfaction in that. No — it is vexing. The devil of a duke has a great deal of wit. Until now I have had only counts — Merjeewsky, Bruschetti, Antonelli — and one plain mortal: Plowden. That makes four. Not many. Instead of being ashamed of falling in love six times a week, I am proud of it. I am a braggart of inconstancy — it amuses me. Besides it is very well, if only to hold one’s own with men, to have the last word so to speak.
Poor Pietro — let him think of me at this moment; I am thinking of him too. He need only thank Torlonia for that. No — I am slandering myself. I don’t know why I boast of being in love with the wretched duke. I am not in love with him — yes I am, no I’m not, yes I am… anyway I know nothing of it. I shall come back to Rome next winter and in better circumstances — one must hope so.

Notes

In Latin in the original: Requiescat in pace. Used ironically for the living Pietro. ↩
Plobster: Marie’s own word, in use since 1874, for the smart, rich, well-born men of society. Asked in August 1874 how Doria could be a plobster «n’étant ni gros ni rouge» (being neither fat nor red), she answered «parce qu’il est extrêmement noble et riche» (because he is extremely noble and rich) (023.0210). ↩
In Spanish in the original: buen retira (so in the transcription, for buen retiro), an ironic reference to the monastery. The Buen Retiro was also the name of the Spanish royal pleasure palace. ↩
“Froide pierre” — the traditional monastic sleeping surface: a cold stone. ↩
In Italian in the original: Via ! ↩