Wednesday, 23 March 1881

Maman in violet velvet and mauve brocade; Dina in a Russian costume — red plush embroidered in gold, her hair massed with diamonds, her long braid hanging down her back. It was not very successful, however — daunted by our isolation during the first three dances, she did not dance for the rest of the evening. We know nobody there, and it was composed of people who all knew each other and had danced together all winter — not to mention previous winters. All more or less Bonapartists: deputies, former senators, dismissed ambassadors
Saint-Amand, meeting us at the door with the words spoken aloud: "Very beautiful!" — makes me dance so as to be seen. Since he scarcely dances any more, people watch us.
M. de Montgomery has himself introduced — he has been asking for it for some time. He is at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Thirty-five; his sister married Louis Janvier de la Motte, the one the Mertens woman had proposed for me. These Montgomerys are the illegitimate children of some lord who left each of them eight hundred thousand francs in government bonds.
The Gavinis arrive; I am introduced to other gentlemen and I dance the whole evening until five in the morning. The cotillon cut in two by supper is quite pretty. I dance only so that no one will say I lack partners.
My costume is of a very pure style — the Directoire or Consulate period; it is, along with Louis XV nymphs and Empire, the style I like best.
A gown of white crêpe de Chine, gathered at the top, a peplum of the same fabric draped over the left shoulder, the whole drawn in under the bosom by a belt of transparent gold braid — the same braid trimming the peplum. A garland of Bengal roses, roses without leaves, starts from the left shoulder and disappears into the folds below at the right; another garland starts from the left hip below the peplum and also travels rightwards to the hem of the dress, which it lifts slightly so as to reveal the right foot just above the ankle. Gloves to the top of the arms, satin sandals with classical lacing. No corset, just a shift, drawers, and a very small flat underskirt of surah — so that between a dancer's hand and me there was nothing but the batiste shift and the crêpe de Chine. I mention this on account of what it must have done to them; as for me, I care nothing — I attach no importance to it! They are strangers; I do not even look at their faces; it is customary to dance, I dance — that is all! My hair is dressed with a very high little chignon at the nape, a puff of curls in front, the shape of the skull visible between the two; a transparent gold circlet round the head, a smaller one on the chignon — quite like the period, in fact. I believe I am pretty and successful.
Saint-Amand had seen the hair-style, having come this morning.
It is a pretty ball (Place de la Concorde) — many elegant, fashionable women. At last — it is not like the Tunis ball; this is society.
The final quadrille was simply the authentic French cancan. Janvier de la Motte père had, as usual, a wild success. This is truly a Bonapartist ball — and from what I have read and heard, this is precisely the informality of the Compiègne evenings, the freedom of manners and the nicknames of the last court. I nearly forgot M. de Tanlay: we recognised each other and waltzed in memory of Spa.
I discover a pot of tar under my bed. It is a tender gesture by Rosalie for my health. On the advice of a fortune-teller!
My family finds this mark of devotion admirable in a servant — Maman is quite moved by it. I pour a bucket of water on the carpet under the bed, break a pane of glass, and sleep in my study, from sheer fury.
It is like that perpetual refrain about wearing warm clothes. My family imagines I have some particular interest in freezing myself, and it irritates me so much that I often refuse to dress warmly just to prove the uselessness of their remarks. Oh — these people will make one die of fury.

Notes

Ambassadeurs dégommés: literally "unstuck" ambassadors — those dismissed or demoted by the Third Republican government, which had been replacing Bonapartist-era appointees with republicans.
Sur le grand livre: the Grand Livre de la dette publique, France's register of holders of government bonds. Eight hundred thousand francs in rentes was substantial private wealth.
Bengal roses (roses de Bengale): a variety of small, repeatedly flowering roses with minimal foliage — here used purely as decoration without greenery, giving a classical, wreath-like effect.
The cancan at fashionable Bonapartist balls was the old-fashioned quadrille form — energetic and slightly risqué — distinct from the theatrical music-hall version. Compiègne refers to the imperial château where Napoleon III held his famous autumn house parties, famous for their informality and nicknames.