Tuesday, 4 September 1877

The other evening's varéniki have given me a passion for sculpture. But do you know, this morning I walked to Schwalbach with Dina and Walitsky. Leaving at ten o'clock we were there by noon. It had rained the day before so the road was ideal, as was the temperature. Walitsky joked; Pincio chased the chickens in the villages; and we laughed. I cannot tell you quite how one of the purposes of this excursion was the Princess Rospigliosi with her sons and some other Italians. I had read their names in the newspaper and went to look at them. It is like a window onto Rome. I was wearing my Directoire overcoat and the green felt hat, and feeling rather pretty was rather content. We were laughing at our Italians.
"Don't look," I said, "here they are near the spring..."
The Princess was in an invalid's carriage, and beside her a gentleman and an abbé, someone who travels with the family. The gentleman is too old to be her son — so it must be Count Charles Lovatelli, since I do not know him by sight and he is the only Italian here besides the Rospigliosis (very young) and Jules Odescalchi, whom I have seen twenty times. I call to the nymph of the spring and she tells me it is an Italian princess or an Italian count. Dina takes a glass of water, after which we go to the covered gallery where the last piece was finishing. The Roman entered after us and spent a long time buying things in the shop opposite ours. He is between thirty and forty, and recalls Antonelli as many Romans do, while being plain. There are strange follies in this world.
This man whose face I would not recognize has disturbed me. He has the same something as many Romans, and Antonelli more than the others because of his beauty. I am not French enough to explain with elegance and grace.
The impression these men make on me translates thus: they fascinate me and I would let them kiss me while detesting them. That is the exact expression of my thought.
As we were in Schwalbach afterwards to hire the ponies from the Allée-Saal hotel, we went there and saw the Italian again, who was talking to the proprietor I was calling for; after obtaining information about the ponies we returned to the gallery, where I bought photographs, after which we went home this time by carriage.
The disagreeable feeling that prompts me to recall that Count Lovatelli involuntarily reminds me of Alexandre, who instead of this Rome's dark fascination had filled me with a kind of radiance quite different from anything I had felt before.
I do not know why I detest the word "felt."
M. Thiers died yesterday at six in the evening. And since I meddle in everything, I will tell you that here is an event that may bring in Napoléon IV, by stripping the republicans of their certificate of respectability.