Sunday, 12 September 1875

At ten past one we get back in the carriage with an Italian marquis and marchioness and their baby.
I am so accustomed to travelling — I have done nothing else for some time. Ah! I understand perfectly well why most husbands do not love their wives. This Italian woman gave me a fine lesson in the art of being a wife. Her baby was charming, fair and rosy and blonde like an Englishman — I was even admiring it. But then there ar-
-rive a perfectly natural catastrophe, and it is the mother — despite the presence of the nursemaid — who deals with the whole thing. Ugh, the filthy business!
I quite understand men going off to their clubs or to clean, agreeable women, and fleeing their wives with their unwashed petticoats — economy! — their careworn faces, their children... and their catastrophes. I do not blame the men — God forbid — I approve of them, I pity them.
It is women who make bad households by trying to make them too good. And they dare to complain!
Besides, unless one is me or very nearly so, one cannot hold a husband within the forms of comme il faut. I am not speaking of holding love — that is impossible; it comes of itself and then slips away like a puff of smoke.
There are women who think they hold love by their knowledge or their coquetry. Come now — they hold nothing at all, and the proof is that when love does leave, all their knowledge and all their coquetry have been of no use, and they are more wretched still than simple women.
Evening in Florence.
So here I am!
Ah!
We take a cab and go to the Hôtel New York — Winslow recommended it to me (I forgot to say that I met him at the Grand Hôtel in Paris).
The city seems mediocre to me, but the animation is great; at every street corner watermelons are sold by the slice — I was hungry, and I confess those watermelons, so red and so fresh, tempted me greatly.
Our window overlooks the square and the Arno. I have a programme of the festivities brought to me. The first day was today.
I had imagined that my cousin Victor Emmanuel would know how to profit from the superb opportunity offered to him.
The centenary of Michelangelo Buonarroti — under the reign of a scoundrel like you!
And you do not summon all the sovereigns? You do not give them celebrations such as they have never seen? You make no spectacle? I! O King! O imbecile! Your son, your grandson, the son of your grandson will reign and not have this occasion!
O great mass of flesh! O king without ambition — what am I saying — without self-respect!
There are congresses of every kind, concerts, illuminations, a ball at the Casino — the former Palazzo Borghese. But not a single king! Nothing as I would have it!
I thank God for it, even as I reproach Victor Emmanuel: if there were festivities such as I had imagined, I would die of envy and vexation — for I would certainly not attend them.
What is wretched is that we do not know a soul. Alone, alone, alone! Two women alone — what can one make of that! Above all when one is not a fright and when one is elegant.
Well then — let us resign ourselves!