Saturday, 11 September 1875

I have luncheon as I have not had in a long time, and it seems as though I have eaten nothing.
I hurry, I burn — I want quickly to be in Florence, quickly to return, quickly to have everything arranged, quickly to spend the winter in Rome. Everything quickly.
Farewell, dear city of my heart!
At three o'clock I leave it. At Ventimiglia, a disagreeable incident: Gaslina the painter, who bungled my portrait the winter before last, approaches us, plays the charming guest, and installs himself in our carriage. You can imagine how much pleasure that gave me!
To have that dog of a painter in front of me for six hours — but I did not stand on ceremony: I settled myself in my corner and read the whole time, only rarely joining the conversation my aunt was making with him.
I arrive at Genoa...
— That is it — it is a thunderbolt, as they say in Offenbach — I am in love with Italy, with this Italy I used to detest. That is just how it happens! I speak Italian with a passion!
We put up at the Hôtel de France — I am enchanted by everything.
Those ancient palaces with their immense windows, their balconies! Our very hotel, our room, has a delicious window vast beyond anything one could imagine in France, with a poetic balustrade.
All in white I station myself at the window — what one needs here is a serenade. But no: instead, there pass some drunken English sailors singing some barbaric song I cannot recall. No matter — I am enchanted all the same.