Friday, 27 April 1877

We went to pay our farewell calls on our good but not very numerous friends. Carmignano came and nearly wept — poor old man; who knows if I shall see him again.
Oh! but I nearly forgot to say anything about the morning. Melissano came to sit so I could paint him in oils. It was charming — in an hour and a half I produced a striking likeness (the nose lengthened slightly for extra distinction), lunched, recounted how on one and the same day two marriages are to take place, those of Melissano and Alexandre to the two daughters of M. Buonocore, a moneylender much frequented by these gentlemen, and read the telegram that the aforementioned Alexandre sent to Melissano from Vienna. It doesn't surprise me, since the other day he walked in saying: In an hour I leave for Vienna. So in an hour and a half I accomplished all that. But do you know — that man loves me?
Oh! so there it is — who it is. We sent for Doenhoff, who had been wanting to meet Melissano, and he complimented me on the portrait, to my great delight. I know how to distinguish and appreciate compliments. Already yesterday, at the Countess Figliasi's ball, Grattaminarda was spoken to about the chalk sketch I made.
The Hamontoff woman has just left. She made her farewells in a rapture of admiration, declaring she couldn't understand our departure at the very moment when all Naples was occupied with our least gesture, etc.
I shall miss Naples — it is the only city in the world where I do not suffer. Stay, then! No, for it would only spoil things. (Sigh.)
On the occasion of the arrival of the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh, the Skating rink has been reopened.
We went there to see our gentlemen once more — everyone was even more agreeable than usual, we were more fussed over, more beloved, we talked and laughed more than ever. I did not skate. Schettino and Caracciolo came with us. I believe tomorrow several of them will accompany us as far as Caserta.
It is almost a wrench to leave. Doenhoff was with us, without his prince.
Farewells, whatever form they take, always have something touching about them. Nasimoff came; and so we heard the final gossip.
From the Skating rink, Campomarino and Melissano came to our rooms; I carry away photographs, inscriptions, sentiments written this evening. Campomarino is charming — in earnest. He wrote such pretty things. As for Melissano, he is taking his portrait to the Princess of Piedimonte to show off the miracle. He sings my praises so well, with such Neapolitan vivacity and in the Neapolitan dialect, that I let him go on. One knows so well how to tell forced flattery from the real thing.
Besides, it is truly astonishing. One must study.
I should like to say so much, but already I am in the grip of that agitation that seizes one before a departure — one thinks of a thousand things, one wants to buy everything, carry everything away, take everyone along, stay, flee... I don't know what else. Since Larderei's departure, I have been witty and pretty — if only it will last.
The trunks are in the anteroom, the writing desks and tables stripped bare, the chests of drawers standing open.
I leave calm and happy.
If those of this evening were to come tomorrow there would be some fifteen of them.

Notes

The Prince of Wales (future Edward VII) and the Duke of Edinburgh (Prince Alfred) were visiting Naples in April 1877.
Cavaliers: suitors and dancing partners.