Wednesday, 6 August 1873

Only at one did we go out. Gutman came and stayed with us during luncheon downstairs. We went first to Klein's. I wanted to buy a fan riding crop like the one I saw at the Exposition, but they had none. We went therefore to the Exposition. It is hot, but bearable in Vienna (grey dress, good). I am beginning to return to my natural state — I am becoming fair and rosy. And with my appearance, my character returns too. When I am ugly, I cannot enjoy anything; amusements are a punishment. I bought the riding crop for fifteen florins. I have bought in Russia silver niello buttons, in France a paperweight, in Austria a riding crop, and I propose to buy in England a saddle. The riding-crop merchant took me for an Englishwoman. Oh! what funny English they speak! He wanted to show me all sorts of merchandise besides; then I ran away. These poor people are glad of anything — there are so few visitors.
At six we were to meet Paul and Gutman at the Provencaux. The dinner is good; next to us the jury was dining — the scoundrels eat well. I had a glass of champagne and was a little tipsy — it is the second time, the first yesterday at the hotel. A single glass and I am done for. It was proposed we go to the Theater an der Wien: La belle Helene, in German. It is well performed, but German does not lend itself to French puns. And Helene does not have a proper costume — she is all covered up, and the style of the dress is entirely modern. I kept to a dark and secluded corner; Gutman was at the theatre with us — he is a very ugly little Jew. As always, there are scenes with my aunt — not nice.
[Written across the page: She will not let me drink water for fear of the cholera epidemic.]

Notes

In English in the original.