Wednesday, 30 July 1873

Woken at half past five. After breakfast, in the restaurant dining room, where we have (or rather he came to speak to us) a Russian general, Parachinsky. He is a first-rate walker; we caught up with him. We went down Monte Incantato to the station. The train was to bring Paul. But in vain — we look for him, nothing. He must have missed the train. And, wretched as we are, forced to wait another six hours. We played after breakfast. It was with great pain that I have driven them from the table.
crossed outI write this in the wagon, before me is seatted a gentleman very like Hamilton One monew though it was he only with a beard!
Well we left Monte-Carlo. I was extremely sorry to part without maman, it is such a pity that she could not come.
I even wept. The views are beautiful, the palms superb; everything is very beautiful on the road to Genoa. But I long to see black north, and green trees.
I want to be done with the departure, and here we are on our way.
But here is what happened to me: on leaving Nice I put on new boots and only at Monaco did I feel them pinching my feet. I paid no attention, but arriving near Genoa, my feet hurt so much that I was forced to go barefoot in nothing but my stockings. Gently, Dina contrived to cut the boots until they fell off my feet. With all these difficulties, getting down from the train and walking to the hotel were hard tasks. We took the first omnibus that came, to the Hotel Quattro Stagioni — the ugliest in the world; they gave us two rooms that looked more like two stables.
The whole time, “the frankest gaiety reigned among us.” Oh, how detestable Italy is, on account of the Italians. What a wretched people! How dirty they are. We wanted a bath, but I did not believe such happiness possible in an Italian hotel. I asked for one as a joke, and what was everyone’s astonishment when it was brought. With a great deal of loud laughter and jokes, I sat down in it. (I am writing this at a table in the Milan station restaurant.) Only at one did I fall asleep.

Notes

In English in the original. ↩
In English in the original. Marie’s spelling and grammar preserved: seatted (seated); monew is probably “moment” and though “thought” — “for one moment I thought it was he, only with a beard!” There is no stop after Hamilton in the transcription. ↩
In English in the original. ↩
In English in the original. ↩
In Italian in the original: tanto doleano. ↩