Tuesday, 27 September 1881

We go to bed late and sleep until ten. Wretched evenings, half in the hotel drawing room, half at the Casino, for I made up my mind to go there after all.
All this in the company of the Karaouleffs and an Englishman, and then the little Russian, very young, very young. A gentleman and lady recently arrived from Marseille, very well-bred, with three delightful children, but she left yesterday. Taking with her the caricature of an old fairy who lives here, which I made in duplicate for her.
Yesterday to Bayonne as a family, today to Fontarabie, and the family too; I never go out without the Karaouleffs. I wanted to go on horseback, but the bodice of my riding habit fits so badly, and besides it would be irritating to ride along with this Karaouleff, whom I do not know and who is a bore. The wife is very beautiful but not of the best sort, and then they do not seem to look after the child enough, and then those people get on my nerves at times... Fontarabie is charming; besides, Biarritz is so common, so clumsy in its very banal beauty, that one is glad to get out of it. And straight away, there on the little harbour, beggar children who would easily make a picture. Only I want to see Spain first, and if I find nothing better there I shall come back by way of Fontarabie... I gambled, there is a roulette table, but having lost forty francs I made sketches instead. It is a little out-of-the-way spot; I hope nobody saw me gambling, anyway...
Oh! those three hours in the carriage listening to that lady recount her inanities, which had not even the charm of society chatter!...
Ah! what have I done to Heaven to be like this? Why can I not eat the bad hotel food that princesses of the blood eat, after all? Why can I not bear the intellectual poverty that surrounds me! Doubtless I have only what I deserve; if I deserved better, God... and then, after all, if I were really so superior I would know how to... Ah! funereal banality.
Imbeciles who are not society people. Oh! well then! O dreams of my childhood, O divine hopes!… Ah! If there is a God he abandons me [illegible] — it is a suffering almost [illegible, an imagination…] — these people wound me, irritate me, bore me when they don’t make me cry. And so I am only somewhat at peace in my sepulchre in Paris; when travelling we are together all the time, and it is unbearable. It is not that my mothers are common or carry themselves badly — when there are no strangers they are my mothers; they are even quite proper. But as soon as there are strangers, Maman, usually so composed, becomes affected in her pronunciation, in a way that has the gift of exasperating me. She speaks to me knowing that Russians are listening, and then it is so different from her natural manner that it causes me some indescribable agony of the ridiculous, of affectation… of horrible pettiness.
It is partly my fault — I always reproach them for not knowing anyone, and I say humiliating things to push them to do something… But it only gives them that pitiful attitude… And when the occasion arises they get on their high horses and speak loudly to be heard by the other Russians, always to boast and dwell on a heap of imaginary grandeurs — if it were done with skill I would say nothing… But it is childish… I always complain about my family… but I love them, and I am fair. And do I even love them? If they were strangers to me, such as they are, would I love them? No, probably not.
Besides the grey, the white dress must be mentioned, which had equal success: a Louis XV dress in muslin embroidered with little flowers, white on white — pointed bodice like the grey one, cut square; a high chemisette with a frill, closely circled by a black velvet ribbon. Hat lined with black velvet, with white feathers. The skirt entirely in lace flounces at the front, since the overskirt, obviously, gathered and sewn to the bodice, opens to be looped up into panniers, though only at two points very far back. All the fashionable people ask Rosalie for the dressmaker’s address — so glory to Doucet. I had gone to this expense out of coquetry for Soria; we have talked twice on the beach and I shall paint his portrait. Soria is the famous singer, an amateur and a wine merchant (in Bordeaux) in France, who has himself paid abroad. He sings like an angel… an angel with a biblical head of great beauty — black beard, splendid eyes — in short, the ideal of biblical beauty. An olive complexion and no hair, nothing but a crown. He is tall; in short, he would make a character portrait that would be stunning… We shall probably meet again in Madrid…
Just fancy, I have taken a horror to M. Karaouleff, as I did to Bruschetti.
These morbid antipathies are strange; I thought that with Bruschetti and the other it was because they were in love with me — well, no: it is without cause, as you see. So much so that I do not go downstairs, so as not to run into him. The only person we know who is genuinely proper is the old fairy: she is Russian and was married to the Marquis de Montezemolo, the last Italian prefect of Nice.
An old caricature — I have hardly exaggerated on the sheet that Mme Theolog took with her.

Notes

In French in the original: comme il faut. ↩
In French in the original: en famille. ↩
Fontarabie: Fuenterrabía (now Hondarribia), a Spanish town on the border with France at the mouth of the Bidasoa river. ↩
Doucet: the House of Doucet, one of the great Paris couturiers of the late 19th century. ↩