Walery Studio

Basic Information

The Walery photography studio was a prestigious portrait photography establishment in Paris during the late 19th century. It was founded by Count Stanisław Julian Ostroróg (c.1830/36–1890), an exiled Polish nobleman and Crimean War veteran, who took the trade name «Walery» from his wife's name, Waleria (Wikipedia, «Stanisław Julian Ostroróg»). His first studio was in Marseille, boulevard du Musée, from 1864 to about 1870; the Paris studio in the rue de Londres opened in 1871.

Significance in Marie Bashkirtseff's Life

Marie Bashkirtseff visited the Walery studio on August 26, 1873, during her stay in Paris. Her diary entry about this visit provides valuable insights into both the world of high-end portrait photography in 1870s Paris and Marie's own emotional state.

At the studio, Marie was particularly fixated on viewing portraits of Gioia, a beautiful woman connected to the Duke of Hamilton (the object of Marie's infatuation). Marie's repeated viewing of Gioia's photographs and comparison of herself to this beautiful woman reveals her insecurities about her own appearance and attractiveness.

Marie's desire to have her portrait taken at Walery reflects both the studio's growing reputation as a fashionable establishment and her own social aspirations. Her visit to this prestigious studio aligns with her broader efforts to establish herself in Parisian high society through association with elite establishments.

Historical Context

The Walery studio at 9 Rue de Londres in Paris had been established around 1871-1872, making it relatively new but already fashionable when Marie visited in 1873. The studio quickly gained fame for its portraits of celebrities, aristocrats, and beautiful women of the era.

Walery specialized in theatrical photography and portraits of opera singers, actresses, and other performers, which explains why Marie saw portraits of Gioia there. By 1873, the studio was becoming one of the most fashionable photography establishments in Paris, attracting clients from high society.

Walery's portraits were characterized by their dramatic lighting, elegant poses, and attention to detail. The photographs were often distributed as cabinet cards and cartes de visite, which were popular collectibles among the upper classes.

Later History

Ostroróg had to let the rue de Londres studio from 1878 after the collapse of his creditor, the Union Générale; he moved to Nice in 1879 and started a new business there, and opened a London studio only in 1884/85 (Conduit Street, then Regent Street) (Wikipedia, «Stanisław Julian Ostroróg»). The earlier claim of «branches in London and Nice» simply refers to these later moves. After Stanisław Julian Ostroróg's death in 1890, his son, Stanisław Julian Ignacy Ostroróg (1863-1929), continued using the Walery name and became known for photographing theater and cabaret stars, including the famous dancer Mata Hari.

The younger Walery's photographs of the Folies Bergère and other Parisian entertainment venues created iconic images of the Belle Époque era. The Walery studio's photographs now serve as important historical documents of late 19th and early 20th century theatrical and social life.

The Marseille studio and Audiffret's portrait

On 10 June 1875 (034.0135) Emile d'Audiffret says that Walery «il y a cinq ou six ans… a fait mon portrait mais très mal». Five or six years before 1875 is 1869–70, when Ostroróg's studio was still in Marseille (1864–c.1870), within easy reach of Nice; the Paris studio opened only in 1871. So the portrait was probably made at the Marseille studio (0.7).

Mentions in the Diary

• August 26, 1873: Marie visits the Walery studio in Paris and views photographs of Gioia
• September 4, 1873: Marie receives her portrait photographs from Walery and critiques them, finding the poses "affected" and commenting that her hair arrangement gives "de la vulgarité" (vulgarity)
• July 13 and 21, 1876 (063.0204, 064.0032): spelled «Valery» in the print. Marie poses there in her capuchin costume: «J'ai posé chez Valery avec cette idée»; «je dois passer chez Valery avec mon costume d'avant-hier». Mon Journal t.8 index: «Valery, photographe : 273». Identified with Walery by name, city and date (the rue de Londres studio, c.1871–1878), about 0.85.