Sunday, 29 May 1881

Yesterday evening we arrive in Poltava. I was counting greatly on the joys of the welcome that would be given us — [words blacked out: take baths] — the hygiene of travel. A good hot supper, etc.
Paul and Alexandre came alone to meet us, and no rooms had even been reserved at the hotel, as they assumed we would go straight to the country estate. Horrible.
Paul has become dreadfully fat. This morning Kapitanenko, Wolkowitsky etc. came. A new face too — M. Lihopoy, quite respectable. My father very happy but somewhat embarrassed to see the sad effect this country has on me, after five years' absence. I do not try to conceal it — and being on familiar terms with my father I do not flatter him. Aunt Etienne comes; she leaves tomorrow for Kharkov.
It is cold — abominable mud — Jews... And all this under a state of siege, with sinister rumours circulating.
Poor country. Arriving at the estate... The fields still flooded by the river, puddles everywhere, mud, fresh green vegetation, lilacs in bloom; but it is a valley — the thought that it will be damp. A fine way to look after one's health. It is of a deadly sadness. I open the piano and improvise something funereal — Coco lets out plaintive howls. I feel sad enough to weep and form the plan of leaving again tomorrow...
A soup is served that [word blacked out: smells] of onion — I leave the dining room. This somewhat bewilders the Princess and Paul's wife. Paul's wife is fairly pretty: superb black hair, a fine complexion, well enough made; a very good little woman, but common.
I try to be like everyone else, but it does not work. Unpacking the trunks livens things up a little, but I am not attending to what is said — and for good reason.
I must take care of my health. A fine chance of that in this damp! Oh — how right Julian was.
Maman has brought all the newspapers that mention me — that good Saint-Amand with my despairing words... from over there they fashion a halo for me here.

Notes

Poltava: the principal city of the Poltava region in central Ukraine, some 300 kilometres east of Kyiv. The Bashkirtseff family estate at Gavronzi was in this province.
The reference to Jews here reflects the context of the 1881 pogroms in which Jewish communities throughout southern Ukraine were attacked. Marie's tone is that of a witness reporting the social landscape — she had commented on the same violence in the previous entry with more political analysis.