Deník Marie Bashkirtseff

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Thematic Tag: Fashion & Dress

This thematic tag collects diary paragraphs where Marie discusses clothing, fashion, dressmakers, and style. Fashion is one of the diary's most pervasive themes — Marie records her outfits with systematic precision and judges others' dress with expert severity.

Marie's Outfit Notation

Marie developed a distinctive parenthetical shorthand for recording her outfits:

  • "(robe bleue et or Worth, nouvelle, bien)" — blue and gold Worth dress, new, good
  • "(robe marron Worth, jaquette Manby, col de Paris, bien)" — with ratings
  • "(robe blanche piqué, chapeau mousquetaire, bien)" — white pique dress, musketeer hat, good

Key Fashion Houses
  • Worth — Charles Frederick Worth, the father of haute couture; Marie's primary dressmaker
  • Laferrière — Parisian dressmaker ("me fait des merveilles de simplicité")
  • Reboux — milliner ("des tableaux de chapeaux" — paintings of hats)
  • Doucet — fashion house; Marie buys a tulle veil for 100 francs
  • Ferry — shoemaker ("des poèmes de chaussures" — poems of shoes)
  • Jouvin — glove maker
  • Virot — milliner

Common Garment Terms
  • Robe — dress/gown
  • Toilette — outfit, ensemble (also the act of dressing)
  • Amazone — riding habit for side-saddle
  • Jaquette — jacket
  • Corsage — bodice
  • Chapeau — hat (critical accessory)
  • Gants — gloves (always noted)
  • Voile — veil
  • Domino — masquerade costume (carnival)

Significance

For Marie, dress was not vanity but strategy. In a world where a woman's appearance was her primary form of public expression, clothing choices communicated wealth, taste, social aspiration, and personal identity. Marie's meticulous outfit records, with their ratings ("bien," "très bien," "mal"), represent a conscious self-fashioning — she is curating her public image with the same attention she would later bring to painting.

Tagging Criteria
  • Tag what Marie or anyone else wears or wore: an outfit note ("(robe brune, bien)").
  • Tag a dress, hat or costume described or judged; a toilette.
  • Tag a fitting, an order or a visit to the dressmaker or milliner.
  • Tag mourning dress and carnival costume as clothes.
  • Do not tag her face, figure and beauty (Beauty & Appearance).
  • Do not tag a bare "je m'habille" or "toilette" in the sense of washing.
  • Do not tag a purchase with no clothes described (Shopping & Errands).
  • Do not tag "amazone" as a riding sport (Sport & Riding).
  • The act of dressing as a daily ritual is described under Toilette; buying clothes also takes Shopping & Errands, and a stated price takes Money.
  • The bar is that the paragraph is substantively about the theme; a passing word never qualifies. A paragraph takes at most three themes.

Common French Cues
  • Nouns: la robe, la toilette, le chapeau, la jaquette, la couturière, la modiste, Worth, le costume, le domino
  • Verbs: s'habiller, essayer, porter, mettre
  • False friends: toilette = outfit or washing; mode = fashion; amazone = habit or rider

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