Wednesday, 15 November 1882

I am in Paris! We left on Thursday evening. Nicolas and Michka accompanied us to the first station; Paul and his wife went with us as far as Kharkov.
We spent twenty-four hours in Kiev; Julie (Alexandre's daughter) is at the institute. She is fourteen and charming.
The journey was enlivened by comments and inventions about the Kotchoubeys — that is, about the younger son called Basil — and that makes me laugh.
And about Alexandra, Paul's wife. We call her Alexandra because Basil kissed her hand... That is to say: here is the story — Dina was chatting with Basil and Mme Paul came and planted herself before him and said point-blank: "I am cold as marble!"
"But why, Madame, why?"
"I have never loved!" (eyes raised to heaven.)
"Well, really!"
"Never!" (a sigh.)
"Then [words blacked out: you know the extravagances] of life — I must explain them to you..." He, the joker; she, sentimental and flattered. On taking leave he kissed her hand. But there was nothing in it — except that we were in the midst of pitying Paul (and he is much to be pitied) and listing his wife's faults; someone mentioned her vanity and bourgeois stupidity, and then I believe I said she considers herself a duchess and thinks to herself: why was I in such a hurry — I could have married a Kotchoubey. I am sure she does think so, although without us she would not even have seen the livery of their servants. Then Maman began saying that in this world only mad things happen, and citing all the grand lords and all the rich men who have married divorced women — ordinary and stupid women, etc. You know Maman. This went on in the railway carriage, and I amused myself by turning it into a running joke, so that by the third day we had begun to believe it really happened and were reassuring each other as if there were some danger. I tell you all this to arrive at this conclusion: that poor Paul has made a rotten marriage. All she has is a pretty face — and not when she speaks, for the teeth are dreadful, and one or two at the front are missing. The bosom hangs down to the stomach, and the fingers are so short that there was no room for the nails, which the Good Lord has almost entirely done away with. You see — that is my jealousy of Basil showing through.
That is the physical — as for the moral: she is stupid, vain, arrogant and false. Maman adds that she is malicious; I do not know about that, but as to the other qualities I have no doubts. Lifted from the bourgeoisie, from provincial squalor, by Paul, she believes all of this is owed to her and conceals the vanity of a fool and an ignoramus beneath a honeyed exterior. She kisses my hands [words blacked out: and considers herself] my superior in everything. Paul, through sheer love, has made her believe she can only live in Paris and that she has never belonged to Poltava society — and he believes it himself, just as Bojidar believed in Sarah Bernhardt's virginity, whose son went to school with him. Well... She does not love him at all. The other day she made him a scene because he came to wake her at two in the morning to tell her how we had spent the day in Poltava. She complained to me about it, and I replied very amicably that it really was not so atrocious as all that — that we had been amusing ourselves; that she had not been there; that Paul had wanted immediately to share those pleasant impressions; that I found that kind and amiable — to which she replied that it was easy for me to say.
"What would you have said in my place? Look — I shall go and wake you next night and we shall see how you receive me," she said.
"But my dear, you are not my husband!"
She is stupid. And she considers herself beautiful, with her bad teeth and her eternal cigarette — very long cigarettes that she smokes without any style. But back there in Poltava one sees only her pretty face. As for Basil — I am like those two liars of Marseille who, seeing everyone run, go themselves to see whether the port really is blocked by a whale... So — (I insist on it) — so if Basil gives only a sign, Paul will be the happiest of husbands.
In Berlin, where we stayed only four hours, Doenhoff came to see us at the station and left at eleven o'clock, the service of his prince calling him to the palace. Five minutes later three charming bouquets were brought with his card — which produced a great effect on Papa, as did the carriage and the gilded liveried footmen with coat of arms.

Notes

The institute: the Imperial Institute for Young Ladies (Institut blagorodnykh devits), the boarding school system for daughters of Russian noble families, with establishments in major Russian cities. Julie would have been enrolled in the Kiev branch.
The "two liars of Marseille": a reference to a well-known French comic anecdote about the inhabitants of Marseille being incorrigible boasters and story-tellers. If they see a crowd running, they join it — and then invent what caused the commotion. The whale blocking the harbour was a classic example.
Doenhoff: a Prussian nobleman in royal service, evidently acquainted with the Bashkirtseff family from their Paris or Nice travels. He appears briefly here; his bouquets and titled equipage impress Marie's father considerably.