Thursday, 9 September 1875

We are in Marseille. My aunt has gone out about those wretched diamonds.
I have an hour to scrub off the grime. Lord, how filthy one gets on a journey.
I feel closer to Nice, to my city — for whatever I say, it is my city. I am so invisible, so lost in Paris. And then, whenever I am in Paris I am without my dresses, so that I am not the most elegant, and that I cannot forgive myself — that I cannot endure.
I am bored and anxious — I shall not be at peace until I reach Florence with all my finery. Never have I been so tormented on account of dresses! Dash it all.
I have had my grey dress and felt hat brushed and am waiting for my aunt to go for a turn about the city.
I bought a novel at some station or other, but it was so badly written that, for fear of ruining my already rather poor style, I threw it out the window and returned to Herodotus, which I am about to read this very moment.
Ah, what a splendid outcome!
Poor aunt! I prostrate myself before her — the places she went, the people she saw, and all of it for my sake! She did not dare ask the coachman where the Mont de Piété was, and instead asked him for the place where they keep diamonds.
We laughed together over the place where they keep diamonds. One cannot pawn anything without a passport, so our few hours' stop here came to nothing.
At one o'clock we leave this city that smells so dreadful. On arriving, my aunt says to me:
— There is Gioia.
— Where!
— Right there.
I ask no more and rush to the ladies' saloon. She is there with an old sick woman whom she appears to be nursing, and two maids.
I am quite moved and cannot stop looking at her, while she keeps her eyes downcast with great modesty. I no longer admire her.
I was in my travelling dress, grey dress and grey felt hat; she too had a grey dress, a black hat — elegant in general, not too heavily made up, without a stunning ensemble and a hat to flatter any woman, without a magnificent carriage drawn by two black horses: our circumstances were the same. She was more groomed than I — and yet I was prettier than she, and nearly as tall. The conclusion of this comparison is that I no longer admire her as before, since I am better than she is. At every moment she had something to send word of to Monsieur.
— Tell Monsieur to telegraph to Nice that my bath be prepared for me.
And Louise would go and tell Monsieur.
My aunt comes in and tells me that Girofla is in the buffet, and I am quite agitated on his behalf — I do not envy his position: to be caught in flagrant transit with this creature.
But it is nothing of the sort — "Monsieur" is not d'Audiffret but some unremarkable gentleman with a rather sheepish look about him; besides, that journey alone could stupefy anyone, and then these gentlemen always wear a half-witted expression around such ladies.
Near Cannes begin the stifled sighs and reminiscences of the Giroflian era. I look back on Nice as I look back on d'Audiffret: with pleasure and vexation.
From Antibes I strain my voice [sic] singing Niçois songs to the great astonishment of the station employees — the closer we got, the more my impatience grew. And must I say it? Yes, mustn't I? Well, I am sad to see all this again. For the moment my whole life in Nice has given way to my life of these past months. Let no one look for anything deep in what I say, nothing sentimental, above all nothing seriously Giroflian — lightly, yes: like a perfume, like a snatch of music, like a sketch of a landscape one has seen.